There are so many new food/coffee shops opening around Vo Van Tan and Cao Thang Sts in District 3 these days that it’s hard to keep up with them. But in the interests of my stomach I keep trying to update constantly. The Bean Store is yet another new one, clean, quiet, sensible background music,nice decor, friendly staff, great menu, good food, reasonable prices, what more need I say?? Give it a try!
On a warm day a hot cup of kumquat tea is very refreshing.
thanks to Jaap and Hong I had these delicious birthday cake/s from Givral. Thanks guys
Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf have a policy that requires the customer to wait at the counter to pick up a coffee or other beverage but they serve food to the table. Usually if I’ve ordered food and a drink I just sit down as the staff bring both to my table. Imagine my surprise just now when the waitress brought over my sandwich and, indicating my drink still sitting on the counter, advised me to get it myself.
Sigh… strange service mentality.
For a long time now I’ve been thinking about writing about food. Well, I sometimes do write about food but in a very unstructured manner. Food is important, without it what do we have to look forward to after a nights fast or a long hard day grinding away at the keyboard. I recently created a “food” category on this blog and a couple of sub-categories, but quickly I realised just how inadequate this all was. I mean there is such a variety of food, both Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese, to choose from in this place and such a variety of places in which to eat it. The subject is MASSIVE.
Even so, many times late in the afternoon when my belly begins to rumble and thoughts turn away from whatever I’m working on, for the life of me I have a hard time thinking of where and what I want to eat. So, if for no other reason then, I should create a new blog and devote it to “food glorious food, fabulous food, wonderful food” (thanks to the musical Oliver for that). That way, if I have the food written down in a logical manner I can simply visit royby.com/food and find what it is I want to eat.
Great idea, one huge problem. Where will I find the time to do all of this. Hmmm mumble mumble. Maybe I’ll go eat something and think this over. But where will I eat?
Living in Viet Nam means adapting to local conditions of cleanliness and hygiene. If you want to eat and drink with the locals then you had better be tolerant of conditions that would not be acceptable in more developed areas of the world. Vietnamese people are well aware of this and tell me that it is best not to look at the kitchen before you eat in a restaurant and if you have to pass by it on the way to your table, better look the other way.
That’s OK with me. I’m inclined to think the same way about many eating places in Australia and, now that I’ve been through the rigours of getting the right bugs resident in my stomach, I’m confident that I can eat and drink in most places in this country with no ill effect. I’m prepared to accept different levels of hygiene in the preparation of food here than I would accept in Australia and turn a blind eye to conditions that are often less than satisfactory.
Many locals serving food here are aware that the standards need to be higher and I can see improvements occurring all the time. Old metal or chipped enamel buckets used for washing crockery are now often replaced by gleaming stainless steel ones and at one of my favourite pavement bun bo eateries I notice the owner now wears a disposable glove to pick up the food rather than just his bare hand.
But even though there is an awareness of the need for cleaner conditions, old habits die hard. I couldn’t help but notice that as the owner was intent on preparing his steaming bowls of bun in as clean a fashion as conditions on the pavement allow, his assistants were still using tried and true methods of preparation.
It is fair to say that the surface of any alley in this city probably harbours enough germs to kill an army. People walk over it, motorbikes and an assortment of other wheeled vehicles traverse it, most people hawk up and spit out their phlegm on it, dogs who lack any other place empty their bladders and bowels upon it and at night the local alley rats leave trails of who knows what on it. So the owner’s precautions at his end of the production line were somewhat negated when I saw his assistant preparing the vegetables by first dumping them directly onto the asphalt to sort them prior to preparation. Do I still eat the bun bo there? Well yes I do and its delicious. You see, that is the tolerance I was talking about.
Last week myself and a mate travelled out to a friends place at Thu Duc. After a meal in his house we went around the corner to his local bia tuoi place. Bia tuoi’s exist all over Viet Nam and they provide excellent fresh and inexpensive draught beer, usually at only 2-3,000 VND per glass. This place also provides excellent food also at very low prices, but remember? Don’t look in the kitchen.
We sat at the usual low stainless steel tables on the ubiquitous low plastic chairs and enjoyed the camaraderie that comes from good beer and good conversation. It wasn’t until we were on our forth or fifth beer that I noticed something that would send any workplace health and safety officer in Australia totally around the bend.
You see, this place has a procedure and it goes like this. Fresh beer glasses are stored on an open plastic rack upside down to drain from where they are taken to the tap, filled with the amber fluid and delivered to the table. Once they are empty the waiter will bring fresh beer and the old glasses are taken away and rinsed in a large open plastic rubbish bin (one or two swirls in the water) and placed back on the drying rack.
So far this isn’t too bad is it? OK, there is no beer soap or disinfectant so the chance of picking up the germs from the last person who drank from the glass is ever present. But what startled me was when I noticed that the two dogs who are resident in this place use the rinsing bucket as their drinking water. Yep, that’s right, there they were paws up on the edge of the bin dropping who knows what into it and lapping from the same water that is used to rinse the glasses.
I pointed this out to my friends and we debated about whether or not to say something to the owner. In the finish we said nothing, drank a few more beers and went home happy. Is this still tolerance or could there be a better word to describe our reaction to it?
The dogs featured in another entertaining episode before the night was over when a large rat scurried over the wall behind us and headed for the kitchen. Both dogs immediately went into rat catching mode snuffling through the kitchen amongst the pots and pans and attempting to get under the cupboard where the rat had taken refuge. However, as rat catchers these two leave a lot to be desired because they failed to notice that their quarry had headed back in our direction and back over the wall. Fifteen minutes later they were still trying to work out where it went.
So is it tolerance or stupidity that I am still prepared, even looking forward, to visiting that bia tuoi again and enjoying their hospitality and cheap tasty beer? Beer which, incidentally, never leaves you with a hangover because it is fresh and free of chemicals. I’ll leave it up to you to decide.
Meanwhile, I’m off down the street for a large bowl of bun bo.
Last night I met at this place on Pham Ngoc Thach St with 3 of my former colleagues from RMIT. Janice (on the left) is teaching in New York now and is back here on vacation.
This is the 3rd night in a row that I’ve eaten oysters here. And why not, these are the largest, freshest, tastiest oysters I have had in years and with a squeeze of lime juice and then dipped in soy sauce laced with obscene amounts of wasabi, heaven!! The mornay style done over a char grill are also very good.
Ah Ha Noi! What a beautiful city you are!
I’m so pleased to be back in Ha Noi, working once again with ARLEMP and living at Khach San Terry Diep.
This city is truly intoxicating particularly when you are living in an alley that simply teems with life. In the mornings there is a market from about 5am and the produce and food available change as the day progresses.
The locals are bemused as I sit every morning and eat the wonderful green coloured fried sticky rice cakes with bean curd inside for my breakfast. They come wrapped in banana leaves before being fried on a metal plate over a steel drum containing a charcoal powered fire. One of these sustains me for most of the day.
A walk out of the alley on to the busy main thoroughfare reveals dozens of Hanoians going through their morning exercise regimens. People of all ages walk, jog or engage in stretches or thi chi. this morning I sat and drank ca phe da and watched a couple playing badminton on the sidewalk and saw them lose their shuttlecock in the myriad of overhead powerlines.
I watched as older ladies walked arm in arm, their lips stained with betel underneath their conical hats and many sat and chatted to begin the day. I heard a cackle of protest from a chicken and peered in to the gloom of a small yard as it was quickly dispatched ready for plucking and the cooking pot as its younger siblings scattered beneath my feet.
Workers from the building site near the house carried long lengths of reinforcing steel while others wheeled ancient looking bicycles with wicker baskets draped across full of sand to mix the concrete.
Another day begins and my tired sleep befuddled mind tries hard to comprehend all that is happening around me. Input overload yet again.
It’s fitting that my last meal in Viet Nam was at my favourite rice shop, Nguyễn Hiền on Nguyễn Thuong Hiền St, which is a small but very busy street that has many food shops and stalls some of which are open until very late at night. The rice shop is only a few minutes walk away from the house so it quickly became a favourite not only because of its proximity but because the food is of such a good quality and great variety.
Mimi and I were feeling fungry and I didn’t want to go through the check-in process without having something in my stomach first. So we went over and had the usual pork fillets barbequed over charcoal and a new dish, fish cooked in a spicy sauce with pineapple. It was delicious and I was glad that I was having my last meal with my Vietnamese daughter.
The ladies and guys who own or work at this restaurant are extremely friendly and I will miss their happy smiles and friendly attitudes.
Clicking on the thumbnail will launch a small slideshow and you can see their happy friendly smiles.